Belize

Wednesday 18th September 1985

To the embassy, grumpy official, Guatemala visa 10$, receipt in Quetzals though. No tourist card. No explanation forthcoming.

1pm bus to Belize City from Batty Bus tout in bus station precinct. 7B$ or 1100 P.

Instant change of atmosphere over the border. Mennonite german in straw hat and dungarees tries to sell me ze best peanuts in ze world. Big boobed black mama, her breasts rolling like proverbial melons in a sack and her hair still in curlers tells me the boss wants me. Change 5500P to 30B$ with man waiting on steps of custom house.

Arrive in Belize City at dusk. First two hotels are closed down. Third is full. Fourth too expensive. Fifth cheap but full. Sixth 10B$ with loo. But over dingey bar whose reggae music keeps me awake all night. The streets after dark have a certain atmosphere. Soft greetings from shadowy corners and a flash of white teeth 'what u lookin for?' and 'take it easy white boy'. Caribbean lady has strong local accent but irish idioms at all at all. Tumble down old place with weather beaten weather boarded houses, the whole city no more than 6 inches above sea level. Long list of names already chosen in anticipation of this years hurricanes. Remarkable any buildings are standing at all, to look a t them you would think the first sea breeze would knock them flat.